Global — We are familiar with the well known architects of fashion design, both past and present. Those who have revolutionized their industry such as Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, who sartorially unleashed the modern woman from the confines of society norms and the notion that fashion for women had to be held to a rigid recipe of frilly frocks and lacy corsets; she introduced the simple little black dress and made menswear items staples in a woman’s wardrobe. Then there is Yves Saint Laurent, who made it fashionable for a woman to wear a tux, and avant-garde designers John Galliano and the late Alexander McQueen, who created designs that are the epitome of wearable art.
Fashion leaders and industry insiders are continually looking for cutting-edge and creative designers, forging a new pathway on what can sometimes seem like a stale runway. Simon Ungless, School of Fashion Director at the Academy of Art University in San Francisco, who has worked with an array of designers including former classmate at Central St. Martins Alexander McQueen, defines the key to success for an emerging designer as having a distinct point of view and knowledge of fashion. “The designer needs to have a clear vision of their work and a very clear vision of their target market,” he says.
An authority on fashion design, Ungless worked on concept and design development for Alexander McQueen collections from 1993 to 1998. His experience with trend forecasting while working for companies such as Nigel French International, International Design Exchange, Informoda Inc. and Design Intelligence, places him in a prime position to identify designers on the rise. In 1996, while an instructor at his alma mater, he worked with up and comers Mathew Williamson, Phoebe Phillo, and Hannah MacGibbon; making him aware of what is entailed in rising to the top of this highly competitive industry. For fashion designers, Ungless says, “There needs to be strong design skills teamed with strong 3D skills in pattern making and draping.”
As consumers, we too look for stand out designers to follow. Here are a few emerging designers to keep on your radar.
Karen Caldwell
Elegance, glamour, and sophistication are the words that come to mind when describing Karen Caldwell designs. The Los Angeles native’s vintage-inspired fashions are a throwback to Old Hollywood and it is easy to imagine them being donned by actresses such as Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, and Elizabeth Taylor. Caldwell’s inspiration spurs not only from a love of vintage — she has a vintage collection that includes pieces from Oleg Cassini, Christian Dior, and Cristóbal Balenciaga — but also from what she saw as a scarcity. “I love the clothing history of Old Hollywood, but found it hard to find newer designs that were reminiscent of that time in history,” she says.
As beautiful as her designs are, the fabric textures and color palettes are just as complementary. Some of the textiles she uses include tulle, crepe, satin, and silk knit jersey in vibrant hues like fuchsia, citrus orange, and turquoise. Beyond her vintage-inspired designs and classic silhouettes, Caldwell strives to maintain integrity in her fabric choices, opting for sustainability whenever she can, and considering the comfort of those who wear her designs. “I want to make a positive impression and hope that I can be recognized for my imagination with cut and color,” she says. “My biggest goal is to make every woman feel so pretty when she wears one of my outfits. I want to make the world more beautiful.”
April Howard
The New York Fashion Week Spring 2011 runway was wrought with designs from well-known veterans like Ralph Lauren to rising stars like Christian Siriano. Also showcasing their designs were Academy of Art University students who were selected from a talented pool of graduate students. April Howard, who interned with Rodarte, is one such student. With a background in fine art and textiles, Howard plans to run her own label within the next five years. “I want to be able to build on my textile design experience and take the fabrics I have designed and make them into garments,” she says.
Howard explains that inspiration for her edgy collection came from the novel “The Road” by Cormac McCarthy. “I wanted to take this feeling of a rotting landscape and bring it back to life with sculptural pieces that reminded me of discarded tires and melted plastic,” she says. Relaxed tailoring and a soft grunge appearance is evident in her designs, like an asymmetrical bubble dress and a slouched collar motorcycle jacket with a winged back that have a distressed leather look.
Alidra Alić
There is a fine line between what an artist does and a designer creates. Alidra Alić captures the essence of this in her jewelry designs. What makes her work so intriguing is the intricacy of the organic designs — there is frivolity with a hint of fantasy melded with floral themes; hence the name of her current collections, Alice’s Adventure In Wonderland and Flora.
Inspired by nature, children’s literature, as well as 19th Century romantic paintings, Alić’s contemporary, fine and bridal lines have garnered a celebrity following, seen on director Pernille Fischer Christensen and Danish actress Trine Dyrholm. The Denmark-based designer’s handmade jewelry collection is created using gold, silver, precious stones, and plastic. She describes her collections as contemporary art, explaining that her work is a reflection of her personality and the aesthetics are what “move” her. Alić also cites the creation process, in which she uses techniques she developed, as inspirational. “I never know what I will end up with and I’m driven by my loyalty to the process and materials,” she says.
(Photos courtesy of Karen Caldwell, Alidra Alić, and April Howard. Howard’s runway photos by Randy Brook for Academy of Art University)
