NEW YORK — We left the Academy of Art University fashion show feeling inspired to change up our wardrobes by recycling dreary black coats for new lively ones. The bursts of color seen on fashion week attendees’ vibrant peacoats brought warmth to the freezing temperatures in New York City. The trend was even more relevant in M.F.A. Fashion Designer Jaci Hodges and B.F.A. Textile Designer Nisha Btesh’s womenswear collections. Other elements included modern and edgy cropped jackets mixed with patchwork details and felted-Shibori textures. A slew of Andy Warhol-esque prints reflected a 1960s vibe.
The continuation of bold color came in the form of a rich orange hue that was seen on woven pieces by M.F.A. Fashion Designer Earnest Huang and M.F.A. Textile Designer Hong Ni. They offered a mix of modern textures with a palette of bright orange, natural olive and beige that made for a Fifth Element comeback. The heavy Bay Area tech influence must have inspired such geometric shapes and multidimensional prints.
It’s time the hipster-chic jean jacket said goodbye, instead we’re gushing over these luxurious interior inspired coats from M.F.A. Fashion Designer Elizabeth Castellon. She used rich colored floral fabrics and leathers on traditional silhouettes to express her 1930s menswear tailoring inspiration. It’s predicted that next fall men will be replacing the disheveled look for something sleeker.
Camouflage definitely made a comeback this season, although this is the first time we’ve seen army-inspired prints done on igloo-shaped overcoats. M.F.A. Fashion Designer Mingyu Du and M.F.A. Textile Designer Joseph Khawane revived structural pieces from military materials including a parachute tent and wool blankets.
M.F.A. Fashion Designer Frank Tsai and B.F.A. Textile Designer Andrea Nieto put a unique spin on traditional menswear. They included elements stemming from urban street wear including combat boots, baseball caps and black frocks decorated with edgy black and white textiles. The all black look never goes out of style and you can expect to see it worn with exaggerated shoulders and two-tone layers.
M.F.A. Fashion and Knitwear Designer Jasmine Gonzalez showcased traditional Inuit inspired outer in the form of vibrant purple and taupe hand-knitted statement sweaters and tailored jackets. Next winter season trendsetters will be keeping warm in cozy cable-knit sweaters with prominent collars.
The environmental elements and nature inspired prints from M.F.A. Fashion Designer Flora Cervantes and M.F.A. Fashion and Textile Designer Lori Solem’s collection was a refreshing take on the earths beauty. Leather straps that decorated the neck were seen beneath overcoats that fell down away from the body. Our radar is predicting a slew of loose fitting dresses in light fabrics with high neck and strappy details.
Alas, the long overcoat is back! We will no longer have to live in fear of being outdated for wearing coats down to our toes. Not to mention our midsections will keep warm in the ever-trendy crop top. M.F.A. Fashion Designer Arijana Kajdić introduced embellished, asymmetrical coats with pronounced shoulders. Her layered-lace pieces were complemented by long leather gloves and on-trend, wide-leg trousers. Next season, keep your eye out for elongated coats and asymmetrical styles across the board.